BEST MEN WATCH 2020

Looking for a new men’s watch? Despite the ongoing madness of 2020, there has still never been a better time to buy one. As GQ’s 2020 Watch Guide attests, there are well over 100 brands worth your attention: from small British dial names such as Marloe and Farer to the Swiss stalwarts of Rolex, Omega and TAG Heuer. And that’s before you even weigh up the booming world of smartwatches.

Of course, since we published the latest edition of our annual compendium, the men’s watch world has been turned upside down. The iconic Baselworld watch fair was cancelled. Watches & Wonders transitioned into an online showcase for the latest wares from Cartier, IWC and A Lange & Söhne, among others. A new Omega Bond watch arrived in the form of the stunning Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition before No Time To Die was delayed to November. Most shockingly of all? Neither Rolex nor Patek Philippe is yet to release a new timepiece this year.

Nevertheless, you remain spoilt for choice when it comes to choosing a new watch. So our pick of the best men’s watches is here to make that decision a little easier.

Above all else, consider how often you’re planning to wear your latest purchase and the occasions that will best suit it. Do you want a dress watch to suit up with, such as the ever-refined Patek Philippe Calatrava or a beautiful Longines Heritage edition? Are you after a sporty chronograph in the same vein as a Rolex Daytona or timeless TAG Heuer Carrera? What about a dive watch to satisfy your inner adventurer or a bang-about model from Mondaine or Casio that’ll deliver maximum bang for your horological buck?

So long as you end up with a timepiece that best suits both your style and budget, there are no right answers. That’s why we’ve assembled such a diverse pantheon of models for you to peruse below. While you do so, here are GQ’s five tips to bear in mind when buying any new men’s watch...

1. Invest in a reliable dial name

Since the wristwatch debuted in the early years of the last century, the name on the dial has served to give some indication of the quality within. "Manufacture" brands produce all their own watches, often producing every last part; whereas "dial names" tend to buy in part- or fully-assembled movements from third-party suppliers to which they add similarly acquired hands, dials, cases and straps. There's no issue with choosing the latter, but it should be reflected in the price. As a rough rule of thumb, the more you are asked to pay, the more the salesperson or online avatar should be able to share about the provenance of the piece you are purchasing.

2. Get a fit-for-purpose model

If you intend to wear your watch day in, day out, are prepared to play sport or exercise with it, or simply think it will be subjected to what tailors euphemistically refer to as "heavy wear", then you should avoid soft-case metals such as gold and in particular platinum. Instead, opt for stainless steel (by far the most practical material) or titanium. Ceramic has its adherents, as does carbon fibre, but these will likely only appear in specific "designer" pieces, which means aesthetics will be your main concern.

3. Choose something you can live with

We are all distracted by the latest supercar regardless of its practicality, but such "kerb appeal" rarely ends well. It’s the same for watches. Consider carefully your lifestyle (as per above) and in particular your style of dress: a large watch on an equally bulky strap or bracelet may well catch the eye, but might not suit the majority of situations in which you plan to wear one. A well-presented steel chronograph is pretty much the benchmark for day-to-night wear, but there’s something to be said for mixing it up occasionally: a gold dress watch on a patent leather strap can sprezz up athleisurewear remarkably…

4. Buy from a reputable retailer

The internet is alive with Fast Eddies offering instant access to nigh-on impossible finds (so called "grail watches") but don’t doubt the importance of authenticity in even the most pucker-looking products and remember: a sale without papers and receipt will markedly reduce its resale value, should you wish to trade it in.

5. Enjoy it!

A watch, particularly a well-made mechanical model, really is a living thing: it needs its heart (or mainspring and balance wheel) to pump in order to work properly (and therefore accurately). Watch winders are fine, but aim to wear your prized timepiece and it should repay you with a lifetime’s companionship, assuming you remember to service it every five to seven years.